Suppose you're in a QRR vs QRR ending where you're up a pawn. Kings are both reasonably safe, the structures are fine. For example, a 2-on-3 and a 3-on-3, or a 3-on-4 and a 3-on-3, something like that; not down to just a couple pawns, no pawns or rooks on the 7th or anything wild - in other words, a sort of "generic" position. You're pushing for a win - or alternatively, trying to hold a draw playing the side down the pawn.
What are the first things about these particular games that a chess coach would tell their students? Besides the platitudes like 'always calculate' and 'stay calm' and such haha For example, which side usually wants trades? How does the pawn being isolated affect the evaluation or plans?
I guess another useful question is, when does QRR vs QRR up a pawn usually win? What sort of situations are we looking to get into? In a lot of these positions I can't tell if it's winning or drawn, even after trying for a while.
Concrete position, concrete answer.
„General“ is meaningless.
PS: push the pawn to touchdown, win material, don’t get mated - general enough?
@Sarg0n You don't have to respond if you don't have an answer to the question. I hope you don't charge much for lessons! "Just calculate!"
I gave you a general answer to a general question. See PS.
Without a concrete position advice is futile. That is usually lesson 1 for my students.
Which position?
Its a extremely complex question... If you would have provided a example game, then it would be much easier to answer.. Anyways many things can happen.. Like the side which is one pawn down can create situation of perpetual checks and this is most likely to happen.. Another scenario is if queens got traded, and pawn is on 2,3,4 or 5th rank, and the king of less materialistic side is near 6-7th rank, then it COULD be draw but again there are exceptions.. Last is one side blunders then another easily wins.. So if both sides play with extreme caution, then its most probably draw.. Better answers can be provided if you give detailed explanation of the position
https://lichess.org/study/QuiAxqOj/zo0x1OXa
Calculate c6. In the game, there's 90" on each clock.
Sounds like your advice is "just guess" in the end. I guess you don't *generally* prefer bishops, don't *generally* avoid playing f6, don't *generally* develop your knights before bishops, and don't *generally* put rooks on open files because you never had to learn - rather, you just preternaturally absorbed the information by psychic osmosis.
I have to do it the normal way, though.
QRR both sides!? is it endgame or still middlegame?
I would probably start with Qg5 or Qh4, playing something „active“. Next Rae8 and doubling or swinging to the wings. Every exchange should favor Black. For the time being I would not touch my f-pawn as long as Queens are on the board, unless forced to do so. With White I would also play Qf3, Qg4 or Qh5. :D
@Debu_Chess Since I am thinking the positions will be of the more boring type, it's endgame. But maybe it will become a middle game again if it gets spicy!
The problem is that there are many equally good moves for either side. It‘s rather a matter of taste. The computer gives … c6, I doubt that all masters would play this particular move.
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