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Which opening should I use to respond white's e4? (Not e5, cuz that's way too common)

I am using the Pirc Defence at the moment. Quite easy to learn. You just need to be aware of the "150 Attack". Downside of the Pirc is that it is a little bit passive so you will need to understand how to strike at the centre as soon as it is safe to do so.

I am using the Pirc Defence at the moment. Quite easy to learn. You just need to be aware of the "150 Attack". Downside of the Pirc is that it is a little bit passive so you will need to understand how to strike at the centre as soon as it is safe to do so.

"... Black holds back his central pawns until White has displayed his structure, with the idea of hitting with the c-, d- or e-pawns when the moment is 'ripe'. Ripeness tends to be a difficult quality to identify, which means that Pirc positions require a certain degree of skill to handle -- if Black waits too long before committing his central pawns then he can be crushed. ..." - IM Sam Collins (2005)

"... Black holds back his central pawns until White has displayed his structure, with the idea of hitting with the c-, d- or e-pawns when the moment is 'ripe'. Ripeness tends to be a difficult quality to identify, which means that Pirc positions require a certain degree of skill to handle -- if Black waits too long before committing his central pawns then he can be crushed. ..." - IM Sam Collins (2005)

d5
the scandinavian is rlly good

d5 the scandinavian is rlly good

@stockwellpete said in #21:

Downside of the Pirc is that it is a little bit passive
IMHO the most tricky thing about these "one pawn move" openings (Pirc, Caro-Kann, French) is that many inexperienced players choose them as an excuse for passive play ("I'm not playing passively, it's a well known opening.") but that can turn out to be a grave mistake. I liked a conclusion of one video about French: "So if you want to play it slow, you should probably choose a different opening."

@stockwellpete said in #21: > Downside of the Pirc is that it is a little bit passive IMHO the most tricky thing about these "one pawn move" openings (Pirc, Caro-Kann, French) is that many inexperienced players choose them as an excuse for passive play ("I'm not playing passively, it's a well known opening.") but that can turn out to be a grave mistake. I liked a conclusion of one video about French: "So if you want to play it slow, you should probably choose a different opening."

@mkubecek said in #24:

IMHO the most tricky thing about these "one pawn move" openings (Pirc, Caro-Kann, French) is that many inexperienced players choose them as an excuse for passive play ("I'm not playing passively, it's a well known opening.") but that can turn out to be a grave mistake. I liked a conclusion of one video about French: "So if you want to play it slow, you should probably choose a different opening."

I played a game last night at my club using the Pirc and I managed to get a draw with it against a stronger opponent. Chatting with him afterwards he said he felt that he had missed an opportunity to win. At one stage I did think that I was busted, but I managed to survive by trading queens in the end. I did strike at the centre reasonably quickly with c5, but I need to look at some master games to see if there are other things I can do early on to gain a bit more space. The only time I got into my opponent's half of the board was to exchange pieces.

@mkubecek said in #24: > IMHO the most tricky thing about these "one pawn move" openings (Pirc, Caro-Kann, French) is that many inexperienced players choose them as an excuse for passive play ("I'm not playing passively, it's a well known opening.") but that can turn out to be a grave mistake. I liked a conclusion of one video about French: "So if you want to play it slow, you should probably choose a different opening." I played a game last night at my club using the Pirc and I managed to get a draw with it against a stronger opponent. Chatting with him afterwards he said he felt that he had missed an opportunity to win. At one stage I did think that I was busted, but I managed to survive by trading queens in the end. I did strike at the centre reasonably quickly with c5, but I need to look at some master games to see if there are other things I can do early on to gain a bit more space. The only time I got into my opponent's half of the board was to exchange pieces.

Play the French for 14 months.
Then learn the Kalashnikov.
Will need to learn the anti-sicilians also.
Don't underestimate the Alapin or especially the Rossolimo.
Then you can learn Sveshnikov and eventually Najdorf and be a menace.
You will transpose to Sveshnikov lines frequently in Kalashnikov so learning it will be easier.
Then you will have plenty of experience with the e4/e5,d6 structures for Najdorf.

Play the French for 14 months. Then learn the Kalashnikov. Will need to learn the anti-sicilians also. Don't underestimate the Alapin or especially the Rossolimo. Then you can learn Sveshnikov and eventually Najdorf and be a menace. You will transpose to Sveshnikov lines frequently in Kalashnikov so learning it will be easier. Then you will have plenty of experience with the e4/e5,d6 structures for Najdorf.

AS a 6-month chess player i advise you to switch openings for about 1 or 2 months and then start deciding which line you like and try it on tournaments, not lichess because you can get some real experience (OTB) so that you can improve now I will show how to grade openings BY 25 Points and each grade has 5 points 25-20 -a very good opening, 20-15-OK opening but has some mild disadvantage,
15-10-Hard to win, 10-5-Very bad opening but slight significance of a draw, 5-0-DONT PLAY IT NO CHANCE OF WINNING

1.Comfort-THE main question you have to ask yourself- Can I win it with this opening,Do I have an advantage if I play this, do I Have a winning position - Grade from 0-5

  1. Advantage-The question is -Do I have an advantage if I play this, do I Have a winning position - Grade from 0-5

  2. Strategy- The question is- do I have a plan after this, Can I attack my opponent - grade from 0-5

  3. Understandization of the opening-Can I remember this easily in a tournament or anywhere,is it easy and can I visualizate what is happening- grade from 0-5

5.Importance-the question- Will this opening work in a higher rated tournament or why do I need this opening - grade from 0-5

Remember also to have a planner of what you are doing and study these openings by using Chessbase or lichess studies
If you read this far thank you and I hope you improve in chess

Ps:This took a long time to type and thank for reading happy opening study !! :) (Pls like (not forcing) I took a long time)

Okie bye bye @drSabrotna and good luck

AS a 6-month chess player i advise you to switch openings for about 1 or 2 months and then start deciding which line you like and try it on tournaments, not lichess because you can get some real experience (OTB) so that you can improve now I will show how to grade openings BY 25 Points and each grade has 5 points 25-20 -a very good opening, 20-15-OK opening but has some mild disadvantage, 15-10-Hard to win, 10-5-Very bad opening but slight significance of a draw, 5-0-DONT PLAY IT NO CHANCE OF WINNING 1.Comfort-THE main question you have to ask yourself- Can I win it with this opening,Do I have an advantage if I play this, do I Have a winning position - Grade from 0-5 2. Advantage-The question is -Do I have an advantage if I play this, do I Have a winning position - Grade from 0-5 3. Strategy- The question is- do I have a plan after this, Can I attack my opponent - grade from 0-5 4. Understandization of the opening-Can I remember this easily in a tournament or anywhere,is it easy and can I visualizate what is happening- grade from 0-5 5.Importance-the question- Will this opening work in a higher rated tournament or why do I need this opening - grade from 0-5 Remember also to have a planner of what you are doing and study these openings by using Chessbase or lichess studies If you read this far thank you and I hope you improve in chess Ps:This took a long time to type and thank for reading happy opening study !! :) (Pls like (not forcing) I took a long time) Okie bye bye @drSabrotna and good luck
<Comment deleted by user>

@drSabrotna said in #28:

Really? How grown up of you.

wdym

@drSabrotna said in #28: > Really? How grown up of you. wdym

@kindaspongey said in #22:

"... Black holds back his central pawns until White has displayed his structure, with the idea of hitting with the c-, d- or e-pawns when the moment is 'ripe'. Ripeness tends to be a difficult quality to identify, which means that Pirc positions require a certain degree of skill to handle -- if Black waits too long before committing his central pawns then he can be crushed. ..." - IM Sam Collins (2005)

Sorry, only just noticed this reply. Very true words indeed. I feel black really needs to strike at the centre at the first possible opportunity. Also black can sometimes pin and exchange white's knight on f3.

@kindaspongey said in #22: > "... Black holds back his central pawns until White has displayed his structure, with the idea of hitting with the c-, d- or e-pawns when the moment is 'ripe'. Ripeness tends to be a difficult quality to identify, which means that Pirc positions require a certain degree of skill to handle -- if Black waits too long before committing his central pawns then he can be crushed. ..." - IM Sam Collins (2005) Sorry, only just noticed this reply. Very true words indeed. I feel black really needs to strike at the centre at the first possible opportunity. Also black can sometimes pin and exchange white's knight on f3.

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