Puzzle Dashboard

A couple of questions about Puzzle Dashboard and a question about training in general.

How do you use Puzzle Dashboard to help you train? Or do you not use it for some reason?
The spider web graph or radar graph only shows up to 9 themes. If you train in more than 9 themes it adds no more that I can see. Is there any way to see the other themes graphed? Is there logic to the 9 shown? Are they your worst 9 for example?
If I am having difficulty seeing more than 2 moves ahead and sometimes even failing to see tricky 2 move puzzles, what training methods are required?

On the puzzle side, I guess I need lots of 2 move mates and 2 move puzzles to try to get near 100% accuracy on them and then graduate to 3 move mates and puzzles and so on.

But clearly I need more. My subjective feeling is that I have no chess tactical vision and no chess tactical instinct. Beyond maybe the simple one move tactics, nothing ever "jumps out" at me. Every puzzle seems an unresolvable jumble initially. Then I have to laboriously go through protocols like "check? capture? threat?".

Clearly also, I have no ability to visualize lines, following lines and compare the results of lines. Visualization, calculation and assessment seem to be barely above zero in my case. And it doesn't seem to be getting better despite doing hundreds of puzzles. I am thinking maybe I would need to do (say) 100 puzzles a week = 5,000 puzzles a year. Would that improve matters? Unless the puzzles are too hard for me, I think I could do 20 puzzles in an hour per day, five days a week. That would leave time for the other aspects of chess study and play.

If 5,000 puzzles a year plus other balanced chess training did little to significantly raise my rating in a year (say from 1400s to 1700s) then that would be disappointing.

A couple of questions about Puzzle Dashboard and a question about training in general. 1. How do you use Puzzle Dashboard to help you train? Or do you not use it for some reason? 2. The spider web graph or radar graph only shows up to 9 themes. If you train in more than 9 themes it adds no more that I can see. Is there any way to see the other themes graphed? Is there logic to the 9 shown? Are they your worst 9 for example? 3. If I am having difficulty seeing more than 2 moves ahead and sometimes even failing to see tricky 2 move puzzles, what training methods are required? On the puzzle side, I guess I need lots of 2 move mates and 2 move puzzles to try to get near 100% accuracy on them and then graduate to 3 move mates and puzzles and so on. But clearly I need more. My subjective feeling is that I have no chess tactical vision and no chess tactical instinct. Beyond maybe the simple one move tactics, nothing ever "jumps out" at me. Every puzzle seems an unresolvable jumble initially. Then I have to laboriously go through protocols like "check? capture? threat?". Clearly also, I have no ability to visualize lines, following lines and compare the results of lines. Visualization, calculation and assessment seem to be barely above zero in my case. And it doesn't seem to be getting better despite doing hundreds of puzzles. I am thinking maybe I would need to do (say) 100 puzzles a week = 5,000 puzzles a year. Would that improve matters? Unless the puzzles are too hard for me, I think I could do 20 puzzles in an hour per day, five days a week. That would leave time for the other aspects of chess study and play. If 5,000 puzzles a year plus other balanced chess training did little to significantly raise my rating in a year (say from 1400s to 1700s) then that would be disappointing.

greysensei edited

In your shoes I'd start training one theme at a time - like "Skewer". You start to see what elements make up a tactic. In the case of skewer, two tactical targets have to be aligned either on a file , rank or diagonal. Tactical targets can be King, Queen, any undefended piece, or a rook in the case of a bishop skewer.

Next move on to something like "pin" - the same thing applies. Tactical targets that are lined up. Works very much like a skewer.

Next move on to "fork". You'll see that tactical targets (queen, king, undefended piece) are on "forkable squares". Each of the 6 pieces has its own set of fork geometrical patterns and forkable squares. You have to get used to these patterns. Often for forks, tactical targets will be on the same color squares (for bishop fork, knight forks, pawn forks, queen diagonal forks). For a pawn fork, pretty much any piece is a tactical target, because a pawn is worth less than any piece.

Do you see any common thread in these motifs? You always have to be looking for tactical targets. Most of the time its King Queen or an undefended piece. Sometimes a piece is defended but you can make it undefended or create an undefended piece via a capture, and on the next move you have an easy tactic like a pin, skewer or fork available.

You can get a little more complex later and see that tactical targets can also be mating squares. Or squares from which another tactic is possible (i.e. forking a king and a square on which another fork is possible).

If you have any money, I'd highly recommend Azel Chua - introduction to calculation course on chessable. Also chessmood tactics Ninja would help a lot - every once in a while chessmood has a promotion where all their courses are free. Another great resource is stepchess.ru - they ease you in to every tactical motif with very easy puzzles. The only problem is its in Russian. But you can click google translate. In your shoes I'd start training one theme at a time - like "Skewer". You start to see what elements make up a tactic. In the case of skewer, two tactical targets have to be aligned either on a file , rank or diagonal. Tactical targets can be King, Queen, any undefended piece, or a rook in the case of a bishop skewer. Next move on to something like "pin" - the same thing applies. Tactical targets that are lined up. Works very much like a skewer. Next move on to "fork". You'll see that tactical targets (queen, king, undefended piece) are on "forkable squares". Each of the 6 pieces has its own set of fork geometrical patterns and forkable squares. You have to get used to these patterns. Often for forks, tactical targets will be on the same color squares (for bishop fork, knight forks, pawn forks, queen diagonal forks). For a pawn fork, pretty much any piece is a tactical target, because a pawn is worth less than any piece. Do you see any common thread in these motifs? You always have to be looking for tactical targets. Most of the time its King Queen or an undefended piece. Sometimes a piece is defended but you can make it undefended or create an undefended piece via a capture, and on the next move you have an easy tactic like a pin, skewer or fork available. You can get a little more complex later and see that tactical targets can also be mating squares. Or squares from which another tactic is possible (i.e. forking a king and a square on which another fork is possible).

greysensei

@Wodjul

Also I've noticed that 99% of puzzle solutions start with a forcing move like a check, capture, an attack on an undefended piece, or an attack on a piece that is lower in value on a piece that's higher in value (i. e. pawn vs bishop, knight vs queen, etc...). Look at these moves and then see how you think the opponent will respond. Often you'll see a forcing line. But I'd say that looking for tactical targets is a better way to do it, because then you start noticing these targets in your games and anticipating tactics. You also start paying attention to your own "loose" pieces.

@Wodjul Also I've noticed that 99% of puzzle solutions start with a forcing move like a check, capture, an attack on an undefended piece, or an attack on a piece that is lower in value on a piece that's higher in value (i. e. pawn vs bishop, knight vs queen, etc...). Look at these moves and then see how you think the opponent will respond. Often you'll see a forcing line. But I'd say that looking for tactical targets is a better way to do it, because then you start noticing these targets in your games and anticipating tactics. You also start paying attention to your own "loose" pieces.

Wodjul

@greysensei said in #3:

@Wodjul

Also I've noticed that 99% of puzzle solutions start with a forcing move like a check, capture, an attack on an undefended piece, or an attack on a piece that is lower in value on a piece that's higher in value (i. e. pawn vs bishop, knight vs queen, etc...). Look at these moves and then see how you think the opponent will respond. Often you'll see a forcing line. But I'd say that looking for tactical targets is a better way to do it, because then you start noticing these targets in your games and anticipating tactics. You also start paying attention to your own "loose" pieces.

I am starting to pay attention to more things. However, there are so many things to pay attention to in chess game. I am an inveterate list maker. I currently have a list of 72 tactics, motifs and phases gleaned from Lichess Puzzles. So I want to do every type, over and over, within enough repetitions to hopefully stick them in my mind. I have a list of 50 chess principles from Chess Vibes. I already knew a lot from other videos. I know there are about 28 standardly accepted chess tactics plus or minus one or two.

It's a lot to keep in your mind all at once. Impossible to do so consciously but it may become pre-conscious and reflexive after enough work and practice games. I am starting to think this means something like the fabled 10,000 hrs needed to become competent at any truly demanding task. Even then, if you are not a genius or near genius, this will mean competence, not anywhere near GM level.

But I would be happy to reach 1700 Glicko-2 in a year or two. That's the initial goal. Then maybe I can dream of 1800.

@greysensei said in #3: > @Wodjul > > Also I've noticed that 99% of puzzle solutions start with a forcing move like a check, capture, an attack on an undefended piece, or an attack on a piece that is lower in value on a piece that's higher in value (i. e. pawn vs bishop, knight vs queen, etc...). Look at these moves and then see how you think the opponent will respond. Often you'll see a forcing line. But I'd say that looking for tactical targets is a better way to do it, because then you start noticing these targets in your games and anticipating tactics. You also start paying attention to your own "loose" pieces. I am starting to pay attention to more things. However, there are so many things to pay attention to in chess game. I am an inveterate list maker. I currently have a list of 72 tactics, motifs and phases gleaned from Lichess Puzzles. So I want to do every type, over and over, within enough repetitions to hopefully stick them in my mind. I have a list of 50 chess principles from Chess Vibes. I already knew a lot from other videos. I know there are about 28 standardly accepted chess tactics plus or minus one or two. It's a lot to keep in your mind all at once. Impossible to do so consciously but it may become pre-conscious and reflexive after enough work and practice games. I am starting to think this means something like the fabled 10,000 hrs needed to become competent at any truly demanding task. Even then, if you are not a genius or near genius, this will mean competence, not anywhere near GM level. But I would be happy to reach 1700 Glicko-2 in a year or two. That's the initial goal. Then maybe I can dream of 1800.

greysensei

Id say don't get hung up on all the chess concepts. Chess is super deep and it can be overwhelming. Try to get good at one thing at a time. Try to focus on what is most often losing you games. My guess it's just hanging pieces. Set a goal for yourself : 10 rapid games in a row without hanging a piece, for example.

I have a method for training not hanging pieces, lemme know if you're interested.

greysensei

Dan Heisman is a famous coach for amateurs and he says that if you just focus on 2 things you can get far:

1 piece activity ( develop all your pieces ), and
2 piece safety, don't hang your pieces or allow an easy tactic

Dan Heisman is a famous coach for amateurs and he says that if you just focus on 2 things you can get far: 1 piece activity ( develop all your pieces ), and 2 piece safety, don't hang your pieces or allow an easy tactic

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