If you are aggressive, you might like the Sicilian defense. I also love the scandinavian with 2. Nf6 for aggression. If you want a positional normal game you should try French or caro kann. E4 e5 can be both positional and aggressive.there’s also a few other lines like alekhines defense, Pirc, modern, Owens defense, or phillidor defense
I believe the sicilian is best for amateurs like us.
e4 e5 is highly theoretical and u have to memorise a lot of stupid stuff just to survive the opening.
e4 c5 involves learning some lines in the alapin, closed sicilian, wing gambit and smith morra and the rest is easy to understand positional concepts which you can play on intuition.
e4 e5 is highly theoretical and u have to memorise a lot of stupid stuff just to survive the opening.
e4 c5 involves learning some lines in the alapin, closed sicilian, wing gambit and smith morra and the rest is easy to understand positional concepts which you can play on intuition.
BISHOPS OPENING
besides the fact that the advice of the forum can be useful, it can be useful too for one's own personal chess construction, to go and look in game books, in databases, testing with stockfish, what would be the best opening (if there is really one that outperforms the others)
Choose one and test it, use the best variation that seems interesting for you.
However I have never hear a good coach telling to study openings seriously unless we are 2000-2200 elo.
Choose one and test it, use the best variation that seems interesting for you.
However I have never hear a good coach telling to study openings seriously unless we are 2000-2200 elo.
I can confirm Black is 'Ok forever' for how long I've played. Against a competent first player, you, the second player will have difficulties mounting any early attacks. The second player generally can not be as active or have as much space. You have to wait for mistakes and/or irresolute play from the first player.
One weakness on either side generally isn't enough to win. You have to create more. Chess borderlines being obsolete when the computer always finds the perfect moves. Why we humans have to make mistakes for other humans to win.
To answer the 1.e4 case though we have found ...c5, d6, c6, or g6 as Black's best chances to win. It depends what you like to play. Each pawn move permanently determines how the game will go since they can't move backwards. 1...Nc6 and Nf6 tend not be as strong since 1.e4 allows White to chase and provoke them to worse squares. Black generally doesn't want to block his C pawn against 1.e4 anyway.
Many of my studies involve how to do well as the second player(Black in this case). Might be worth checking them and your opponent's King sometimes.
One weakness on either side generally isn't enough to win. You have to create more. Chess borderlines being obsolete when the computer always finds the perfect moves. Why we humans have to make mistakes for other humans to win.
To answer the 1.e4 case though we have found ...c5, d6, c6, or g6 as Black's best chances to win. It depends what you like to play. Each pawn move permanently determines how the game will go since they can't move backwards. 1...Nc6 and Nf6 tend not be as strong since 1.e4 allows White to chase and provoke them to worse squares. Black generally doesn't want to block his C pawn against 1.e4 anyway.
Many of my studies involve how to do well as the second player(Black in this case). Might be worth checking them and your opponent's King sometimes.
I exclusively play the modern scandinavian. It gives good results in your level if you play it well,, but at my level so/so. Ima switch now, but still a great weapon in your arsenal, as it forces your opponent to most likely play into a french that they dont want to play, or to dive in unfamiliar territory.
And also avoids all the dangerous e4 lines, like scotch, fried liver, and whatnot (the reason i stopped playing e5 in response to begin with).
And also avoids all the dangerous e4 lines, like scotch, fried liver, and whatnot (the reason i stopped playing e5 in response to begin with).
@Clearchesser said in #35:
> I can confirm Black is 'Ok forever' for how long I've played. Against a competent first player, you, the second player will have difficulties mounting any early attacks. The second player generally can not be as active or have as much space. You have to wait for mistakes and/or irresolute play from the first player.
>
> One weakness on either side generally isn't enough to win. You have to create more. Chess borderlines being obsolete when the computer always finds the perfect moves. Why we humans have to make mistakes for other humans to win.
>
> To answer the 1.e4 case though we have found ...c5, d6, c6, or g6 as Black's best chances to win. It depends what you like to play. Each pawn move permanently determines how the game will go since they can't move backwards. 1...Nc6 and Nf6 tend not be as strong since 1.e4 allows White to chase and provoke them to worse squares. Black generally doesn't want to block his C pawn against 1.e4 anyway.
>
> Many of my studies involve how to do well as the second player(Black in this case). Might be worth checking them and your opponent's King sometimes.
There is generally nothing wrong with blocking the c pawn against 1. e4. The main line e4 e5 is literally 1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nc6, where black blocks the c pawn on move 2. Blocking the c pawn in double queen pawn positions is bad though.
> I can confirm Black is 'Ok forever' for how long I've played. Against a competent first player, you, the second player will have difficulties mounting any early attacks. The second player generally can not be as active or have as much space. You have to wait for mistakes and/or irresolute play from the first player.
>
> One weakness on either side generally isn't enough to win. You have to create more. Chess borderlines being obsolete when the computer always finds the perfect moves. Why we humans have to make mistakes for other humans to win.
>
> To answer the 1.e4 case though we have found ...c5, d6, c6, or g6 as Black's best chances to win. It depends what you like to play. Each pawn move permanently determines how the game will go since they can't move backwards. 1...Nc6 and Nf6 tend not be as strong since 1.e4 allows White to chase and provoke them to worse squares. Black generally doesn't want to block his C pawn against 1.e4 anyway.
>
> Many of my studies involve how to do well as the second player(Black in this case). Might be worth checking them and your opponent's King sometimes.
There is generally nothing wrong with blocking the c pawn against 1. e4. The main line e4 e5 is literally 1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nc6, where black blocks the c pawn on move 2. Blocking the c pawn in double queen pawn positions is bad though.
I'm trying to help John Doe here and not a particular Magnus. Thanks for being slightly more precise though.
@Clearchesser said in #38:
> I'm trying to help John Doe here and not a particular Magnus. Thanks for being slightly more precise though.
you don’t have to be magnus to know blocking the c pawn in e4 positions is fine
> I'm trying to help John Doe here and not a particular Magnus. Thanks for being slightly more precise though.
you don’t have to be magnus to know blocking the c pawn in e4 positions is fine
According to my experience, while blocking the c pawn with a piece, you have to be tactically sharp to be able to exploit that piece.
While bringing the c pawn to fight for the center, it is often easier to suffocate the the opposing pieces and play without too much calculation.
While bringing the c pawn to fight for the center, it is often easier to suffocate the the opposing pieces and play without too much calculation.
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