How to improve playing fast?

especially with internet chess i suffer from the same leaving pieces and pawns hanging in one.
quite a few games i did 15 first or second choice stockfish and then just give away a piece. Not talking about tactics just leave a piece on the spot he just attacked. This almost never happens to me in otb speed chess tourneys.

Some tactics are avoidable. Take for instance your first game example. Things did not start with you getting mate. It started way earlier.
Move 20 you played a3. Stockfish gives a3 and Kb1 around 2.5 in the plus.

a3 gives you trouble in the end. Kb1 would not. a2 and b2 still defend all squares. if he attacks b2 you can play b3 rook can defend from second rank etc. no worries so you do not have to spend thinking time about the defence.

2 pawns up. 2 ways to loose the game. Time and mate. With kb1 no mate threads so save time.
Then get your pieces in play, then better squares or exchange and win the game. Good positions is easy multiple good moves is saving time.

Try to think sometimes different in a material up position.
f.i. you have 3 min on the clock.
20 best moves --- 10 second each move just over 3 min so you end up in panic and likely mistakes.
or
10 moves put you pieces into play. 6 seconds each. 1 min
30 moves simple finish the game moves. 3 second each. 1.5 min.
30 seconds spare time. no time pressure.

If you play bullet games, you will play faster but not stronger :)

You will do your mistakes faster but you will not play better. First, you must study chess. When we study something new, we play slower because we haven't got experience with it. Then, it's a good moment to play blitz games, not before :)

Play fast without have been learning anything hasn't got logic. Follow my advice and you will improve.

FM Alberto Chueca
www.albertochueca.com/

just win anything else loses

"@NoobFrank, doesn't Rd3 just hang the bishop on e2?"

That's exactly what I said. See my first post.

@dampoo, the decision to play a3 at some point was made far earlier than move 21, try move 14. Bh6+ is a predictable move there and before castling you need to decide what to do with your king: c2 or b1? If you go c2 you dont want to go b1 a few moves later. But yes, after my opponents mess up b1 would have been the better square. Just thought c2 and c3 would cover and help fight for the open d-file.

But this post was not about one game. I can post dozens and dozens of games like that one. Long games. Short games. OTB games. Online games. Same problem.

You say 30 seconds is no pressure? I lose OTB if I only have a 30 second increment left - virtually every time. This is why I know I need help. My bullet rating (on other site) is about 1000 points lower than long game rating.

@AlbertoChueca, I am not trying to improve bullet or blitz chess. I am trying to improve classical chess. The "holes" in my vision manifest themselves more directly in speed chess, but even in long games they are there - as huge overlooks in the variations I calculate.
It is not a matter of experience, I have been playing chess for 30+ years. It is also not a matter of tactics training, been doing well over 10,000 tactics puzzles (maybe more than 20,000) in my life. So I am at loss how to improve.

If your post was a covert ad for your coaching services, I did look for a coach not very long time ago. Based on your page you would not have been my first choice. There was nothing wrong with, but many things I was specifically looking for are not mentioned. Let me know if you want me to elaborate.

@NoobFrank, well you gave a long variation. What I ment was: if 26. Rd3 then just taking the bishop with 26. ... Nxe2+ looks more straightforward :p

Take every piece of material that you can, regardless, a long as it is an exchange or a position where you win the exchange and gain a piece.

@TheTap

„ ...embarrassingly bad at playing quickly....“

Try to play slow.

Well, call it experience, gathering, chunks...

Even top GMs blunder in zeitnot.

Do you really think there is a switch?

@Makropoulos, heh. Playing slow is what I do. And after having done that for sufficient number of moves, I find myself low on time and having to blunder the game away. :-)

@Sarg0n, of course everyone makes mistakes when low on time. What I am trying to say that my mistakes are unworthy of someone my rating, and the kind of 'time trouble' I mean is not 5 seconds per move. A 1800-1900 FIDE should spot a mate in one or a knight fork given 30-60 seconds per move.

I fear that @NobodyReally has a very good observation in adults having difficulties fully internalizing new patterns. At least to the point them being second nature to spot.

In case it helps anyone else: after doing a few thousand low rated puzzles on chess.com, I think I can see a pattern in when 'obvious' moves do not come to me naturally. It is when there is another pattern present that I spot first. Like my subconscious gets occupied trying to exploit the pattern spotted, rather than scan for other moves/patterns. In the sample game I posted, I guess my subconscious got distracted trying to evict black's knight from d5 -- and was unable to alert me of the threat of Rb3#.

move 21 a3 is the losing blunder from a human point of view. The nice thing about KB1 and a3 is stockfish gives them both around 2,5.

you are asking 2 questions. Both have the same answer.
How can i play faster? Not get into trouble, avoid difficult positions when you have large material advantage.
How can i not blunder? Not get into trouble, avoid difficult positions when you have large material advantage.

Back to 21: Kb1 or a3.

What is the king.
Defender of weak squares close to the king. (opening, middle and endgame)
Hopeless guy who you do not want to get mated. (middle, endgame)
Attacking piece. (endgame)

your first move with the king was Kc2. Excellent move. Rooks battle for the d file and your king defends the square d1 for extra support.

Move 21: you are 2 pawns up. Control the d file. Poor bishop, no weak pawns.
Your opponent has less pawns and a and c file isolani..
Overall plan is simple. Exchange 1 or 2 rooks, develop or exchange your bishop, go into endgame win with 2 pawns up.

Do you care if it takes 20 or 30 moves to win? Tempi are less important because you have winning material.
- How can you loose the game: Being mated, promotion, time or big blunder.

-21: Kb1 cost 2 tempi: Kc2- Kb1 somewhere in the endgame Kb1-c2 to the centre.
What do you get for 2 tempi.
A: Kc2, a2, b2, c4 vs. a3, b2 and c4. With half open b file for the opponent.

Both pawn structures happen quite often.

Your opponent attacks b2 very often. Rook can support from the side on the open file. If things get really troublesome you can move to b3.
Your opponent attacks c4: in trouble you can move b3.
Your opponent attacks a2 often. Again in trouble you can move a3 or b3 and defend from the open d-file with a rook.
Your opponent plants a piece on b3. You take the piece with the pawn on a2.
You challenge the open b file with Rook a3 or b3. Both squares are defended and open for access.
Your opponent attack a4 - d1 diagonal: b3 option again.

a3, b2, c4 and Kb1:
How many options do you have??